Farmhouse Table DIY with Removable Legs

Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs

Farmhouse tables are my absolute favorite piece of furniture and will always have a special meaning to me! Farmhouse tables are the reason I taught myself how to build furniture, they opened up the DIY world to me that I love, and they also made me realize I could have a blog too. I started my first creative small business by opening up a vintage rental company for weddings and farmhouse tables were the main rental item. Brandon and I built 20, eight foot, beautiful, cedar farmhouse tables. Here is a photo of one them with some other rentals I offered:

Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs
Kimberly Florence Photography and styling by Alyssa of Ginger & Blooms

I no longer run the vintage rental business and I sold the farmhouse tables to another rental company, but my love of furniture building has continued and I am excited to finally share the farmhouse table build plans that we used to build 20+ farmhouse tables. What I love about these plans is that the table legs are easily removable! So, if you move a lot (or want to build them for your business too) and need them to be easily transportable, these plans work wonderfully!

The plans I am providing are for a 6 ft. long x 40 in. wide farmhouse table using 2x thick wood, but they can be modified for any size table and with different wood thickness too. The farmhouse table in the photos below is the table Brandon and I built for my brother, sister in law, and nephew. I’ve also included a photo at the very end of our very FIRST farmhouse table that we still use today in our kitchen!

Note, if you are building the farm tables for a rental business, I recommend using 1x thick cedar wood. Cedar is beautiful and much lighter than pine wood. It makes transporting the tables even easier!

Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs

Note, this post contains some affiliate links. For more information see my disclosures here.

How to Build a Farmhouse Table with Removable Legs:



1. Gather all materials and supplies. Make your table top, legs, and side apron cuts

It’s important to pick the straightest boards you can find as this will help when you are assembling your table. Make the cuts below. Note, for the table top we are starting with an extra inch on each side which will be trimmed off later.

  • Table top – (3) 2×10 @ 74″
  • Table top -(2) 2×8 @ 74″
  • Side Aprons – (2) 2×4 @ 57″
  • Legs – (4) 4×4 @ 29″


2. Trim side edges off table top boards

To get a snug fit for your table top boards, use a circular saw and trim 1/4″ off the side edges of all the boards, except for the two outside edges of the table top. We used a straight edge guide we made to do this, but you can use a table saw guide or buy a straight edge cutting guide as well. In the 2nd photo below you can see the difference straight edges on the right side make compared to the rounded edges on the left side. Note, typically for 1x thick wood the boards are already square/straight on the edges and you don’t need this step.

3. Lay out table top and and mark pocket hole locations

Lay out your table top board in the correct order (make sure two rounded outside edges are on the ends) and mark with a marker the order # on the board ends. Then, flip the boards over and mark where you are going to drill pocket holes. It’s best to space them 8″ – 12″ apart and alternate on each board. Also, make sure to stay a few inches in from the sides. I wish I had a better photo of the kreg hole markings, but I’ve added arrows on the photo below to give you an idea of the placement.

Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs

Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs


4. Drill pocket holes and assemble table top

Use your Kreg Jig and drill the pocket holes as marked on your table top boards.

*Tip: See my how to use a Kreg Jig post for an easy, step by step tutorial and video tutorial on how to use the Kreg Jig!

Then, using wood glue and kreg screws, attach each board together one at a time (making sure each board is assembled in the correct order). 48″ long clamps definitely help with this part.

Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs


5. Trim the ends of the table top

Use a circular saw and trim 1″ off of both table top ends in order to get perfectly straight ends. The photo below is a bad pic but it gives you an idea of what this step looks like!

Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs


6. Drill pocket holes on side aprons and attach to table top

Use your Kreg Jig and drill three pocket holes spread out on both side aprons. On the bottom of the table top, mark the halfway point (36″) along the side, then mark 3 inches above that point. This is where the center point of your side apron should be attached. Next, mark the center point of your side apron (28.5″). Line up the center point of your side apron with the center point you marked along the side of your table top. Attach with kreg screws and wood glue (make sure your side apron is being attached perfectly parallel and 3″ in from the edge). Repeat on the other side.

On one of the the square edges of each table leg, use the 45 degree Chamfer Router bit and route a chamfer at least 3 inches long.

8. Prepare corner brackets

Line up your legs and corner brackets to the side aprons as shown in the photo below. Then, measure the distance from the bracket back to the table end (should be about 6.5″). Repeat on the other side and make sure the distance from the bracket back to the table end is the same so both of your corner brackets line up at the same distance from the table end. Attach brackets to table top using 1″ wood screws drilled into the the two, bottom, corner bracket holes. Repeat on the opposite side.

Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs

Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs

9. Prepare and attach end aprons

Line your table legs back up against the side aprons and corner brackets. Then measure the inside distance from one table leg to the other to get the exact end apron measurement. Repeat on the opposite table end. Next, cut your 2×4 end aprons to size, drill three pocket holes on them, and then attach to your table top with wood glue and kreg screws. Note, as shown in the 2nd photo below, it helps to line up your end aprons and mark where you’d like your three pocket holes to go so you avoid drilling them into a crack or other pocket hole on the table top.

10. Drill screws into remaining corner bracket holes

Add screws to the remaining corner bracket holes to secure the corner brackets to the side aprons and end aprons.

Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs


11. Prepare and attach middle support braces

Measure the exact distance in between the side aprons and cut three 2×4 middle support braces to size. Add two pocket holes to each end of the braces and attach to the side aprons on the bottom of the table top with wood glue and kreg screws. I forgot to take a photo of attaching the support braces…

Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs


12. Finish making table legs

Use a small pencil and mark where the corner bracket holes lines up on the table leg chamfer. It also helps to label the table leg and end apron it matches perfectly with A, B, C, D if you want.

Use a drill press and drill 90 degree holes into the chamfer where you made your hole markings. It’s really important the hole is drilled at 90 degrees or else the leg may go on crooked. Next, the attach hanger bolts into the holes with a hanger bolt driver.

Finally, attach your removable legs to your farmhouse table with 5/16 flat washers and hex nuts!

Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs

Flip your farmhouse table over and it’s all ready for sanding, staining, and finishing! Here is the final result:

Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs

Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs

Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs

And here is a photo of our very first farmhouse table that’s still in our kitchen today and was our test build to figure out the best way to build a farmhouse table with removable legs:

Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs

I hope these build plans explaining how to build a farmhouse table with removable legs has been helpful! For a tutorial on how I stained and finished all of the farmhouse tables we’ve built, you can check out my post How to Stain Wood. We used Minwax Dark Walnut for this table.

I’d love to see your version of this build! Feel free to share photos with me on Instagram, Facebook, or email: [email protected]!

Be sure to follow along on Instagram and Pinterest for my latest projects, fun updates, and sneak peeks!


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39 thoughts on “Farmhouse Table DIY with Removable Legs

  1. Would it be possible to make this with bigger dimensions. Like 8 feet long instead of 6. I was thinking about making the tables for my wedding. The only rental service around charges an arm and a leg. I figured I could make them for about the same price as renting and just sell them after. I wanted to be able to seat 4 on each side and 1 on each end.

    1. Yes you can definitely do this at 8ft long! The ones we made for weddings were 8ft long, you just need to adjust the cut dimensions to account for the extra 2ft. Also, if they are for your wedding, I recommend using 1x thick wood instead of 2x as it will make them much lighter in weight. I also recommend cedar wood from a lumber company instead of pine from home improvement stores because that will reduce the weight a lot too and it’s usually a better deal to buy the wood from a lumber company. Hope that helps!

    2. Hi, I am building a table using 1 inch pine, for the aprons, should I still use 2x4s, or should I adjust to 1 inch for those as well?

  2. I love this table, especially the ability to remove the legs. This may be a dumb question: how deep do you set the chamfer router bit? Does it matter?

    Thanks for the great plan!

    1. Thank you Tom! That’s a great question about the router bit. We sort of just eyeballed it and set it so the router bit blade was slightly above the edge of the 4×4. I think we tested it out on a scrap piece of 4×4 first to make sure it was the depth we wanted for the chamfer, so I definitely recommend doing that first!

  3. Hi folks. Thanks for a great plan. Just finished my first table and it looks great. However, I built an 8′ table and 43 inches wide. I do not have anything level in my shop so how do I make sure it is level before It goes to it’s new home? Thanks a lot.

      1. Note to Donald about leveling the table: you could install table leg leveling feet on the bottom of each leg. They screw in and out and allow you to adjust each leg to compensate for minor leg heights/uneven floors. Big box stores, Amazon, and hardware stores carry them.

  4. I just love the finish on the table top! I live in a small apartment, and have a small, old drop-leaf table I like, but it’s ugly oak finish. Black chairs need new finish too. I have done a lot of refinishing but never this technique, and not sure I could do in my apartment, at least the stripping. Anyway can’t wait to see how you did top! Thank you!

    1. Thank you Kathy!! I can totally relate about wanting to refinish older pieces with not so pretty finishes! I’ll be sharing more about the weathered wood finish later this week!

  5. Hi Angela,

    What a great looking table… I look forward to building using your plans but maybe adjusting to a larger size. I was just wondering what got you out of the table rental business? These are great looking tables so I would imagine you got a decent amount of business.


    1. Thanks Colton! The farm table rentals were definitely very popular for weddings but after experiencing the lifestyle of working in the industry it was too much to handle long term with lots of weekend work and all. I also realized I loved the DIY/design side the most and wanted to focus on that instead.

  6. Hey Angela! Beautiful table. I was wondering what your approximate cost of Supplies is for the table (excluding tools).

  7. I love this design! My background was heavy construction before furniture, and it’s nice seeing someone incorporating the tips like trim the edge once the top is put together.

  8. Angela, Love your website. Very well put together. Im tossing the idea around about making some rustic farmhouse tables myself and try renting them out in my area like you used to do. Not sure what I would do about chairs though. Did you rent out chairs or just let the customer provide their own? Thank you, Shawn

    1. Thanks Shawn! I didn’t rent out chairs since most of the wedding venues already had chairs to offer. If they didn’t, it was easy for brides to rent then from another rental company who offered them. Although some brides wanted to rent matching benches which is another item you could potentially make and rent out too. Hope that helps!

  9. Hi Angela,
    The table looks great and I’m thinking of building one myself. The concern I have is with expansion and shrinkage of the table top with changes in humidity. With your table top glued and screwed to the aprons have you had any issues with warpage? Thanks.

    1. Thanks Andy! I haven’t had any issues with warping of my kitchen table and its been about 4 years since we built it. But there is always the potential for it. Since our table is inside, I think this definitely helps, but if the table is going to be outdoors, I think there is a much higher potential for it. Either way, to help prevent it, I always try to start with really straight boards that are in good condition and not already warping or cracking. And when screwing in the Kreg screws, I always back them out just slightly after tightening them in all the way. Hope that helps!

  10. Love the table and will definitely be building one! Any chance you have plans for wood benches shown above? They look great together. Thanks!

    1. Thanks Ken! Unfortunately I don’t have plans for the bench, it belongs to my brother and sister and law, I think they had someone custom build it for them.

    1. Kreg screws help provide an extra strong joint between the boards. Also, once all the boards are glued and connected with the Kreg screws you don’t have to keep them clamped together for hours and wait for the glue to fully dry.

  11. Did you have any stability or wobble issues? I’ve seen a lot of DIY farmhouse style tables built with a cross beam between the legs around ankle/knee height.

    1. Out of all of the 22+ farm tables that I have built this way, only 2 of them had a small wobble due to the wood being a bit warped. To fix this, we just trimmed around 1/4″ or so off of one of the legs so it wouldn’t wobble anymore and sit flush with the floor. They are all very stable and we didn’t have a need for any additional beams.

  12. So it’s probaly me but you say make the apron 3” in from edge of table but then say it will be 6” from the corner of the leg? So is all the apron sides and ends 3” in from every edge?

    1. Sorry for the confusion! Only the longer side aprons are 3″ from the edge. The short end aprons will be about 5″ in from the edge since the metal bracket sits 6.5″ inches back from the edge (and the wood is 1.5″ thick). Hope that makes sense!

  13. When you did them for wedding do you know how many chairs were at each table typically, (how many did the 8ft table seat?)

      1. Thank you!! I made one so far and love it! The Kreg tool is my new obsession! Thanks for sharing this! We are a small farm wedding venue North of Atlanta Ga! Thank you!

        1. You’re welcome! I’m so happy to hear that! I love the Kreg tool too, it makes building things so much easier!

        2. KMI would like to fit 8 people. Some of them on the rounder side. ( heavier ) some not. Do you think 7 ft. Would work or would 8 be better.
          Also, wondering if you have ever used s4s boards. Since my tools are limited I was thinking of doing that so everything was straight. My concern is getting them here and having them not lay flat and then one, any thoughts or ideas ?

          1. I think 8 ft works best for 8 people or 4 people on each side. Also, I have made the tables with cedar s4s boards and they turned out great, so I would recommend trying that out to see if it works well for you.

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